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Most chef/owners probably made New Year’s resolutions like “Make my restaurant more profitable” or “Create a really killer new menu item.”

But not Randy Evans of Haven. “My goal for 2012 is to make veal the new pig for chefs,” he says.

Veal? I love veal, who doesn’t? But the ethical animal rights folks have made veal the face of animal cruelty. Poor little babies yanked from their mothers at birth, tied in stalls or crates and force-fed milk. Never seeing the light of day. How can anyone want to condone that? Veal is the second most non-PC food on the restaurant menu. (More about the first in a moment.)

There’s even a national organization urging you to boycott veal, which is just what several towns and cities in America have done. Even big box Costco banned buying veal from producers using the crate-and-chain method in 2010.

“I’ve been asking my sources to raise humane veal for a year and a half,” says Evans. “My dad worked on a dairy farm when he was young and he always said bulls were dinner. They would cull the bulls (who couldn’t produce milk for the dairy) and feed them until they were ready for slaughter. They weren’t harnessed in stalls. They were just raised naturally. And a calf is about 200 pounds, like a pig, and you can use all the parts of it just like a pig.”

Finally, Evans found someone willing to raise calves his way.

Meet Felix Florez of Black Hill Ranch.

“Black Hills’ veal is just really delicious,” says Ryan Pera of Revival Market


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